I remember exactly what it felt like to bring home my first batch of hens. I was excited, overwhelmed, and had about 42 tabs open trying to figure out what I’d gotten myself into.
Raising chickens isn’t just about eggs (though they’re a nice bonus). It’s about building something real—a small connection to your food, your land, and your own resourcefulness. And if you’re just getting started, this guide will walk you through every step.
I’ve put together this guide based on more than a decade of backyard experience—the things I learned the hard way, and the things I wish someone had told me on day one. Whether you live in the suburbs, the country, or somewhere in between, I’ll help you figure out if chickens are right for you—and how to get off to the best possible start.
Why Raise Chickens?
Backyard chickens have made a big comeback in recent years—and for good reason. They’re more than just quirky yard pets. They offer real, practical benefits that can make your life simpler, more sustainable, and even a little more joyful.
Here are a few of the most common reasons people—myself included—decide to start raising chickens:
1. Fresh Eggs, Every Day
Once you’ve had eggs from your own hens, it’s hard to go back.
Fresh eggs have deeper color, richer flavor, and higher nutritional content than store-bought varieties. Depending on the breed and season, a small flock of 3–5 hens can easily supply a family’s weekly egg needs.
2. Natural Pest Control
Chickens love to scratch and peck at the ground, and in doing so, they keep insect populations in check. From ticks and mosquitoes to beetles and slugs, chickens are a surprisingly effective (and chemical-free) pest management system.
3. Sustainable Waste Recycling
Kitchen scraps, garden trimmings, stale bread-chickens help reduce household food waste while converting it into compostable manure.
That manure, once aged properly, is gold for your garden.
4. Educational and Fun for Families
If you have kids (or even if you don’t), chickens are a fantastic way to learn about responsibility, food systems, and the natural world. And they each have personalities — curious, bold, shy — that quickly make them more than just animals in the yard.
5. A Step Toward Self-Sufficiency
For many people, chickens are the gateway to a more self-reliant lifestyle.
They’re low-cost, low-maintenance, and high-value.
Whether you want to move toward homesteading or just feel a bit more in control of your food source, chickens are a great place to begin.
Can You Legally Keep Chickens Where You Live?
Before you fall in love with the idea of raising chickens, there’s one important question to answer first: Are you even allowed to keep them where you live?
Chicken-keeping laws vary wildly — not just from country to country, but from town to town. Some urban areas allow small backyard flocks with a permit. Others may ban roosters or set strict limits on the number of hens. And if you live in a neighborhood with a homeowners’ association (HOA), you might have to follow separate rules entirely.
Here’s what you should do before buying your first bird:
1. Check Your City or County Ordinances
Most local governments post animal-related rules on their official websites. Search for terms like:
- “urban chickens [your city]”
- “backyard poultry ordinance”
- “domestic fowl zoning regulations”
Look for details like:
- Are chickens allowed at all?
- How many hens can you keep?
- Are roosters banned?
- Do you need a permit?
- Are setbacks (distance from property lines) required?
If the info isn’t available online, call your city’s zoning office or animal control department. It’s better to know now than risk fines — or having to rehome your flock.
🧠 Tip: Over on r/BackYardChickens, many people share their local zoning experiences. Search your city name there for real-world advice.
2. Understand HOA and Neighborhood Rules
Even if your city allows chickens, your neighborhood might not. Homeowners’ associations often have their own bylaws, and some rental agreements specifically prohibit livestock.
If you’re renting or part of an HOA, double-check those documents — or just ask. A friendly heads-up to your neighbors goes a long way, too. Most chicken problems (noise, smell, pests) come from poor setups — not the chickens themselves.
3. Think Beyond “Legal” — Think Practical
Just because chickens are allowed doesn’t mean every yard is ready. Make sure you have:
- Enough space for a proper coop and run
- Good drainage (wet yards cause sick birds)
- Some buffer from annoyed neighbors
The RSPCA recommends at least 1.1–1.4 square meters (12–15 sq ft) per chicken for outdoor space, and that matches what experienced keepers suggest on BackyardChickens.com. Tight quarters lead to stress, pecking, and disease.
Bottom line:
Know the rules, ask questions, and set yourself up for success. The last thing you want is to build a coop, buy your birds, and then get a notice to shut it all down.
How Many Chickens Should You Start With?
One of the first big decisions you’ll make is flock size. It’s tempting to start small — and that’s a smart instinct — but how small is too small?
For beginners, a flock of three to six hens is usually ideal. Chickens are social animals and do best in groups. A single chicken will become lonely and stressed, and even a pair can struggle with pecking order issues. Three gives you a stable dynamic and enough egg production to cover the average household.
Keep in mind that egg-laying depends on the breed, time of year, and age of the hen. Most beginner-friendly breeds lay around 4–6 eggs per week, so a flock of three could give you a dozen or more eggs every week during peak laying months.
When deciding how many birds to start with, consider:
Space
Do you have enough room for both a secure coop and an outdoor run? A good rule of thumb is 4 square feet per bird inside the coop and 10 square feet per bird outside.
Noise and Neighbors
Hens are generally quiet, but they do make noise when they lay or get startled. Make sure your neighbors are okay with it — especially if you live close together.
Local laws
Some cities or counties have a cap on how many birds you can keep. Others may restrict roosters, even if they allow hens.
Future planning
Most keepers eventually expand their flock. It’s smart to build a coop that allows for a couple of extra hens down the line — it’ll save you time and money later.
If in doubt, start with fewer and add later. Chickens are easy to scale up, and it’s better to grow your flock slowly than to become overwhelmed early.
Choosing the Right Breed
Not all chickens are created equal. Some are calm and friendly, others are flighty and nervous. Some lay like machines, while others are more ornamental than productive. Choosing the right breed as a beginner can make your experience easier, more fun, and a lot more rewarding.
Start by thinking about your goals. Are you looking for consistent egg production? Birds that are friendly with kids? Low-maintenance backyard companions? Your answer will guide your breed selection.
Here are a few beginner-friendly breeds that consistently rank high among backyard keepers.
Rhode Island Red
Tough, independent, and productive. These hens lay a lot of large brown eggs and can handle most climates. They’re also easy to find and relatively inexpensive. Some can be a bit bossy in mixed flocks, but they’re rarely aggressive.
Orpington (especially Buff Orpingtons)
Often called the “golden retrievers” of the chicken world. Calm, sweet, and great with kids. Buff Orpingtons are fluffy, friendly, and lay a respectable number of eggs. They tolerate cold well but can overheat in hotter climates.
Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock)
A well-rounded bird for any beginner. They’re social, adaptable, and steady layers. Barred Rocks have striking feather patterns and a reputation for being easygoing with other flock members.
Australorp
One of the best egg-laying breeds for backyard keepers. Australorps are hardy, quiet, and gentle. They lay consistently — sometimes more than 250 eggs per year — and are known for being docile even in smaller spaces.
Easter Egger
Fun, colorful, and a hit with families. These birds lay beautiful blue, green, or pinkish eggs and often have sweet personalities. Because “Easter Egger” isn’t an official breed, appearances and temperaments vary, but they’re generally beginner-friendly.
When in doubt, look for breeds known for calm temperament, adaptability, and egg-laying reliability. Avoid more exotic or ornamental breeds when you’re just starting — they often require extra care and aren’t as forgiving if mistakes happen.
No matter what you choose, a healthy chicken raised in a good environment will reward you with eggs, entertainment, and a surprisingly charming presence in your yard.
Chicks or Adult Hens?
This is one of the first real forks in the road when you start out: do you raise baby chicks from scratch, or start with full-grown hens?
I’ve done both — and I’ll tell you this: there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It really depends on what kind of experience you want, and how much time and patience you have in the beginning.
Raising chicks is kind of like raising a new puppy. It’s messy, noisy, a little nerve-wracking at first — but it’s also incredibly rewarding. You’ll see their personalities form day by day, and the bond you get from raising them by hand is something special.
But chicks come with work. You’ll need a heat source to keep them warm, a brooder box, chick feed, clean water, and regular check-ins — especially during those first couple of weeks when they’re fragile.
They won’t start laying for 4 to 6 months, so if you’re hoping for fresh eggs right away, this route requires patience.
Starting with hens, on the other hand, is like skipping the diapers and going straight to the good stuff. You can usually find pullets (young hens just about to lay) from local breeders or farms, and within a few weeks, you’ll start seeing eggs.
It’s a smoother start — no heat lamps, no brooding, no daily chick checks. Just set up your coop, bring them home, and settle in.
But keep in mind: older birds may not be as easy to tame, and unless you trust the seller, you might not know how they’ve been raised or treated.
So what should you do?
If you’ve got the time and curiosity, and you’re okay waiting for that first egg, I’d say start with chicks. You’ll learn more, connect more, and get the full experience. But if you want something simple, productive, and beginner-friendly — hens might be the better way to go.
Either way, you’re starting something good. And whichever path you pick, I promise: chickens will teach you more than you expect.
Housing Your Chickens
If you’ve ever seen a beautiful Pinterest-worthy chicken coop and thought, “Do I really need all that?” — the answer is no. But you do need something safe, clean, and practical.
A good coop is about function first. Your chickens don’t care about the paint job — they care about staying dry, warm, and away from raccoons. Trust me, a well-built, no-frills coop will serve you better than a fancy one that cuts corners on ventilation or security.
Let’s break down what matters most when it comes to housing your flock.
Coop Size
The general rule is 4 square feet per chicken inside the coop, and at least 10 square feet per chicken outside in the run. More space is always better, especially if they’ll spend a lot of time confined during bad weather.
Here’s a guide on coop and run sizing requirements to help you figure out what your setup needs.
Overcrowding leads to fighting, boredom, stress, and health issues. If you’re even thinking about getting more birds later (you will), build a coop that gives you some wiggle room.
Ventilation
This is the one thing I didn’t understand when I built my first coop. Chickens produce a surprising amount of moisture from breathing and droppings, and if that moisture doesn’t have a way out, it builds up fast — especially in winter.
Good airflow helps prevent respiratory problems, mold, and frostbite. Don’t worry about drafts — just make sure you have high vents near the roofline, not blowing directly on your birds.
Predator Protection
If it can dig, fly, climb, or chew, it will try to get into your coop. Raccoons, foxes, hawks, stray dogs — even rats can become a problem.
Use hardware cloth (not chicken wire — it’s too weak) to cover all openings. Bury it at least 6–8 inches around the perimeter to stop digging predators. Latches should be raccoon-proof — think: carabiners or locking mechanisms, not flimsy hooks.
Nesting Boxes & Roosts
Each hen will need access to a nesting box for laying — about one box per 3–4 birds is plenty. Line them with straw or wood shavings and keep them clean. Chickens prefer dark, quiet places to lay.
They’ll also need a roost — basically a raised perch where they sleep at night. Use a smooth wooden board or thick branch, about 2–4 feet off the ground. Chickens instinctively want to sleep off the floor for safety.
Easy Access for You
Design your coop for your convenience too. Can you open it easily to clean? Reach the nesting boxes without crawling? Carry feed in and out without bumping into things? You’ll be in and out of that coop every day — make it work for you, not just your birds.
Feeding and Watering Basics
Feeding chickens might seem simple — and in many ways, it is. But the better you understand their nutritional needs, the healthier your flock will be and the better your egg production will hold up.
At its core, your birds need three things every day: balanced feed, clean water, and occasional extras done right.
Starter, Grower, and Layer Feed
Not all chicken feed is the same. What your birds need depends on their age and purpose.
- Chicks (0–6 weeks): Need a starter feed with 18–20% protein. It helps them grow quickly and develop a strong immune system.
- Pullets (6–18 weeks): Switch to grower feed with slightly less protein (around 16–18%) and no added calcium.
- Laying hens (18+ weeks): Transition to layer feed, which includes extra calcium to support strong eggshells.
You can find both pellet and crumble versions — some chickens are picky about texture, but nutritionally they’re the same. I personally prefer crumbles for younger birds and pellets for adults since there’s less waste.
Do They Need Grit?
If your chickens are confined (i.e., not free-ranging much), they’ll need grit — tiny stones that help them grind food in their gizzard. You can buy this pre-packaged and offer it free-choice in a small separate dish.
Calcium Boost (Optional)
Even with layer feed, hens sometimes need more calcium, especially during peak laying season. A small dish of crushed oyster shell or clean, dried eggshells can help. They’ll only eat what they need — their bodies are smart that way.
Treats and Kitchen Scraps
Yes, chickens can eat your leftovers — but moderation matters. Treats should make up no more than 10% of their diet.
Safe scraps: veggies, fruit peels, cooked rice, oatmeal, leafy greens
Avoid: salty foods, raw beans, onions, chocolate, anything moldy
A handful of black oil sunflower seeds or mealworms is a great protein boost — especially during molting season — but don’t overdo it. Spoiling them is fun until you notice egg output dropping because they’re skipping their regular feed.
Water: Clean and Consistent
Chickens drink more than you think — especially in summer. Each bird can drink half a liter or more per day.
Keep waterers:
- Elevated slightly to prevent bedding mess
- Shaded in hot weather
- Heated in freezing climates to prevent ice-up
Check water twice a day, and give it a quick clean when it starts to look dirty. Dirty water leads to illness fast, especially in a confined flock.
Daily and Weekly Chicken Care
Once your chickens are settled in, daily care becomes a simple routine. You’ll spend a few minutes each morning and evening checking on them, and a bit more time each week doing maintenance. It’s not hard — but consistency matters.
Here’s what a normal rhythm looks like once your flock is established.
Every Morning
- Check food and water
Make sure feeders are topped up and waterers are clean and full. In hot weather, check more than once a day — chickens can go downhill fast if they run out of water. - Let them out (if applicable)
If you keep your flock in a secure coop at night, open the run door in the morning so they can get fresh air and sunlight. - Look them over
Do a quick visual check. Are they active? Walking normally? Comb color good? If one is sitting off to the side or moving strangely, take a closer look — you’ll learn to spot what’s normal.
Evening Routine
- Collect eggs
Eggs are best gathered daily. It keeps them clean, avoids breakage, and prevents the rare chance of a hen going broody (trying to sit and hatch them). - Close the coop (if you lock it)
Predator safety is everything. Once they’ve gone to roost at dusk, close up the coop to keep raccoons, foxes, or neighborhood dogs from trying anything overnight. - Quick clean if needed
If you notice a particularly messy area near the feeder or under the roost, scoop it out to keep things fresh.
Once a Week (or as needed)
- Clean the coop
You don’t need to scrub it spotless — chickens don’t need sterile — but scoop out old bedding, add fresh shavings or straw, and check nesting boxes. A clean coop means fewer flies and healthier birds. - Refill grit or oyster shell
Check your free-choice dishes. They’ll go through these more slowly than feed, but don’t let them run out. - Inspect the coop
Look for signs of chewing, digging, moisture buildup, or droppings under roosts. A five-minute check each week can prevent big problems later. - Observe flock behavior
Watch for squabbles, limps, or any chickens being pushed away from food. Behavioral shifts are often the first sign of health issues.
Chickens thrive on rhythm. Once you get into the habit of checking on them morning and night, it becomes second nature — like feeding a pet or watering your plants.
A few minutes a day is all it takes to keep your flock healthy, safe, and productive.
How Much Does It Cost to Raise Chickens?
Let me be honest with you — if you’re getting chickens to save money, you might want to hold off. When I first started, I figured I’d be swimming in free eggs. What I didn’t factor in were all the little things: the coop, the feeder, the random upgrades, the late-night panic-buy of predator-proof latches.
Chickens can absolutely be affordable — and once things are set up, they mostly are. But the start-up costs can sneak up on you fast if you don’t plan ahead.
What You’ll Likely Spend Up Front
If you’re building your own coop from scrap wood or pallets, great — you’ll save a lot. But most people end up spending a few hundred dollars in the beginning. Here’s roughly where the money goes:
- Coop and run – DIY might cost $150–$300 if you’re handy. Prefab kits? Anywhere from $250 to $800+, and honestly, most need upgrades out of the box.
- Feeders and waterers – Around $40 for a decent set. I still use my first ones ten years later.
- Bedding – Pine shavings or straw. Not expensive, maybe $10–15 per bale, but it adds up.
- The birds themselves – Chicks are cheap, around $4–6 each. But you’ll need a heat source and brooder setup. Started pullets (young hens) usually run $15–$30 apiece.
If I had to give you a ballpark for starting with 3 or 4 hens and a decent setup? $350 to $600 is a realistic range. More if you’re buying everything new.
Ongoing Monthly Costs
Once your flock is established, monthly costs are pretty manageable.
- Feed – A 50-lb bag of layer pellets runs me about $20 and lasts my 4 hens a full month.
- Bedding – I change it weekly, so about $10/month.
- Extras – Treats, grit, oyster shell… let’s call it another $5–10, depending on the season.
So, round it out — you’re looking at around $30–40 a month to keep a small flock fed, clean, and happy.
The “Surprise” Costs
There’s always something. A cracked waterer. A coop latch that rusts. A raccoon that forces you to reinforce the run. One winter, I had to run an extension cord to power a heated water base because everything froze solid for three days. These things happen — but they’re manageable if you budget for the unexpected.
Is It Worth It?
In pure dollar terms? Maybe not at first.
But in fresh eggs, compost, garden help, pest control, and the weird peace that comes from watching chickens peck around in the yard? It’s worth every penny.
Just go into it knowing what to expect, and you won’t be surprised. That’s how you start strong — and stay in love with it.
Mistakes to Avoid as a Beginner
I’ve made most of these mistakes myself — and I’ve seen new chicken keepers hit the same bumps over and over.
None of them are deal-breakers, but they can lead to stress, sick birds, or expensive do-overs. And the truth is, most of them are easy to avoid once you know they’re coming.
1. Building a Too-Small Coop
This is probably the most common one. You think, “I’ll just get three hens,” but by spring you’re already looking at more. Overcrowding leads to fights, poor egg production, and nasty cleanup jobs.
Build for more than you think you’ll need — not just more chickens, but also more room to move inside, more ventilation, and more nesting space. You’ll never regret extra space.
2. Skipping Ventilation
A coop without ventilation is a recipe for respiratory problems. Chickens produce a lot of moisture through their breath and droppings, and that moisture has to go somewhere.
Good airflow — especially near the roof — is essential. Just make sure cold drafts aren’t blowing directly on your birds. Dry and cool is safer than stuffy and warm.
3. Assuming They’ll Eat Anything
Yes, chickens are great at cleaning up leftovers — but not everything is safe. Moldy food, raw beans, salty scraps, and certain plants can all make your birds sick. I always say: if you wouldn’t feed it to a toddler, don’t give it to a chicken.
Stick to balanced feed as the main diet, and treats as exactly that — treats.
4. Not Thinking About Predators Until It’s Too Late
Raccoons, foxes, hawks, snakes, rats — they’re all out there, and they’re all smarter than you think. I’ve had a raccoon undo a sliding bolt I thought was secure. After that, every latch on my coop got upgraded.
Secure your coop like you’re locking up a box of snacks in the woods. Because to predators, that’s exactly what chickens are.
5. Getting Roosters Without Knowing the Rules
Roosters aren’t necessary for eggs — only for fertilized eggs — but a lot of beginners don’t realize that. They also don’t realize how loud roosters are, how territorial they can be, or how many city ordinances ban them outright.
Unless you’re intentionally breeding or live in a rural area with plenty of space, start with hens only.
6. Comparing Yourself to Others Online
You’ll see perfect coops, colorful egg baskets, and spotless runs on social media — and you might start feeling behind. Don’t. Chickens don’t care about Instagram, and your birds won’t mind if their nesting box was once a milk crate.
Keep it clean, keep it safe, and keep learning as you go. That’s all they need.
Mistakes are part of learning — and you’ll make a few no matter how prepared you are. But if you avoid the big ones early on, you’ll enjoy the process a lot more, and your flock will thank you for it.
Final Thoughts
If you’ve read this far, you’re not just curious — you’re serious. And that’s all it takes.
Raising chickens isn’t complicated, but it is a commitment. You’ll mess up sometimes. You’ll second-guess things. You might even lose a bird. That’s part of it. But you’ll also collect warm eggs with your own hands, laugh at ridiculous chicken drama in the yard, and maybe feel something that’s hard to explain — a little more grounded, a little more connected to the pace of nature.
If you’re starting small, smart, and steady, you’re doing it right. Don’t rush to build a dream flock overnight. Get to know your birds. Let the rhythm of their routine teach you something. That’s what happened to me.
And if you’re still unsure, that’s okay too. Bookmark this guide. Come back to it when you’re ready. I built it to help people like you avoid the noise and just get the facts — from someone who’s done it, not someone guessing.
You’re not late. You’re not behind. You’re just at the start. And that’s exactly where you’re supposed to be.